We set out for María la Gorda at the extreme western tip of Cuba. It’s an all-day drive, and our unflinching NMOS leader Dave Krueper (sustained by the whole gang) is not going to leave any Cattle Egret or Smooth-billed Ani uncounted. Yes, this is fun, but I am ready for those endemics!
Giraldo Alayon, our very fine Cuban guide, talks to us about Cuba’s geology and habitats as we travel––of the karstic (limestone) soils and the high level of endemism. Giraldo is a birder (and a very fine dancer!), but his more serious profession is arachnologist––a spider man.
In 1986 Giraldo spotted an Ivory-billed Woodpecker in eastern Cuba, igniting excitement that the species survived. Researchers found three Ivory-bills in that area, but in recent years biologists seeking Ivory-bills have been chasing evanescent rumors in Cuba. Hope has faded, but among Cuban biologists it hasn’t died entirely.
From Ray (Raydalie Pérez O’Farrill), our marvelous Cuban logistics-and-cultural guide, we learn of Vitamin R (rum). Only one day into the trip, spirits are high and joking is rampant.
After a few birding stops, we arrive at María la Gorda, where palms overhang the breaking surf and a Cuban Black-Hawk perches above mangroves. It’s good to land!
As I drift off to sleep, sea breezes are stirring, and waves lap at the shore, promising great adventure ahead.